A local’s guide to Queenstown and Arrowtown: ‘Like walking on to a film set’ | New Zealand holidays

I have lived in Arrowtown/Kā-muriwai for 13 years. It’s beautifully preserved – like walking through a movie set in the gold mining era, but with Queenstown International Airport on our doorstep.

Arrowtown is slower than Queenstown/Tāhuna. It’s 20 minutes away and there’s a real desire to maintain this slow pace, although we welcome both New Zealand/Aotearoa tourists and international guests.

In April, the Arrowtown Fall Festival is a major event; this is a spectacular moment ahead. It looks like the hills are on fire – our equivalent of the Japanese flower season.

Queenstown Food

The cow in Queenstown is difficult to find but it is an institution. The menu has not changed since its opening in 1977, nor has the Bolognese recipe. It’s a place for super simple pleasures – spaghetti, pizza, zuppa – in a building that was once a stone barn for cows.

If you’re not looking for the formality of a table, my advice is to dine at the Rātā bar. It’s the same great food but you can interact with the bartenders. I love starters that twist classic dishes, including a Southland sushi roll, which is like a fancy cheese toastie.

Don’t miss a dinner with wine pairing at Amisfield Vineyard. This year it ranked 99th in the world’s 50 best restaurants. The chef, Vaughan Mabee, is a crazy hunter-gatherer: wild boar, elk and mutton are all on the menu.

My partner and I opened the Spanish-inspired restaurant La Rumbla in Arrowtown 13 years ago. The lights were dimmer, the music louder, and the flavors bolder than anything else around. We also stay open later than other restaurants (our kitchen closes at 10 p.m.).

Alex Tong of Wolf Coffee, which has locations in Queenstown and Arrowtown, roasts his beans locally. Their cafe on Buckingham Street in Arrowtown only serves coffee and their amazing team of baristas prepare filter coffees, cold brews and more. He always has new single origin beans to try. We also serve Wolf Coffee in our Kahwah Café.

The Mora winery’s artisanal cuisine is set in a beautiful garden. Bespoke cuisine in Queenstown, under the Skyline Gondola, prides itself on being fresh, unprocessed and local.

Nature on the South Island of New Zealand

The Sawpit Gully Trail begins at the historic Arrowtown Chinese Settlement site, which is worth a visit. It’s a 7.9 km loop with a steep climb but the views are phenomenal. There are beautiful natural rivers and the entire Remarkables/Kawarau mountain range is within your reach. You could spend three hours or a whole week hiking there.

From Glenorchy/Tāhuna I love walking to the first hut on the Routeburn Track (one of New Zealand’s great walks) in Fiordland National Park. It’s 16km round trip with a lovely swim near the old forge. The native bush smells so good.

Everyone should take the TSS Earnslaw steamer from Queenstown across Lake Wakatipu to the Walter Peak country farm. The farm offers gourmet barbecues and farm-to-table experiences or you can watch sheep shearing or collie dogs at work. I think everyone should see a working New Zealand farm in the highlands.

Nightlife in Queenstown and Arrowtown

There are some fantastic, hard to find bars in Queenstown. I love Soda’s phenomenal cocktails and the waterfront ambiance of Lodge Queenstown.

The Winery is a fun self-serve wine bar. You swap your credit card for a wine tasting card and make your own tour, choosing from single-vineyard and reserve wines from all over New Zealand, including places without a cellar door. The tasting card shows what you’re drinking – either half glasses or full glasses – and you pay when you leave. The one in Queenstown stays open until 9:30 p.m.; Arrowtown closes a little early.

Music fans shouldn’t miss a concert in Yonder. It serves great food by day and transforms into a really cool music and comedy venue in the evening.

We also host Slow Cuts in Arrowtown. We do live jam sessions on Fridays from 7 p.m. which can last until midnight. It’s a really fun evening with burgers, beers and music. The band plays in front of the kitchen and is hosted by Nemo Gent (son David Gent of New Zealand band The Exponents). It’s mostly covers – Fleetwood Mac, Roger Miller and the Eagles.

Inspiration

We have a phenomenal representation of art galleries here showcasing New Zealand artists. I love NMG (Nadene Milne gallery) and Astor Bristed in Arrowtown, as well as the Starkwhite and Milford galleries in Queenstown. They are all excellent at spotting emerging talent and nurturing them. There is usually an opening or lecture at one of these galleries, so browse the websites before you go.

The Lakes District Museum and Gallery is a treasure trove of the gold mining era. It might sound cheesy but it’s so well done and it’s a cheap family outing in case of bad weather. There are rooms furnished in earlier eras and photographs, maps and books. You can take a 15 minute tour or stay for two or three hours.

You can rent a frying pan at the gold panning museum in Arrow River. This is one of the only places where you don’t need a claim (similar to a permit) and a huge 70ga nugget was found recently. The Saturday morning Remarkables Market is a fabulous walk. I love the white fish stalls, local eggs, hazelnut oil and Branch Creek honey.

Neighborhood

Glenorchy is at the other end of Lake Wakatipu, past Queenstown. The 45-minute drive from Queenstown is ridiculously scenic, with plenty of places to stop for photos. Stop at Mrs. Woolly’s General Store to pick up some baked goods (the pastries are fantastic) for a picnic on the wharf.

Glenorch Lagoon Walkway is an easy 3.2km walk and on a calm day the snow-capped peaks are reflected in the lagoon so you can take stunning photos. You may be able to spot wetland birds including stilts, swans, oystercatchers and marsh harriers.

We’re really proud of our bike paths here. Take an e-bike tour through our wine country and stop in Gibbston for a beautiful day with stunning scenery. It is known for its Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris. There are a few small hills but you don’t need extreme fitness. Better by Bike and Arrowtown bike rentals are both good. I would recommend visiting Gibbston Valley Vineyards and Wineries, Coal Pit, as well as Gibbston Tavern and Mount Rosa Wines for food.

Accommodation in Arrowtown

Arrowtown Lodge (from NZD220 per night) owner Paul Stevenson is a hospitality legend famous for his home-cooked breakfasts. He is also an avid gardener, so the gardens are spectacular. You can sit outside with a fire pit and look out over the city.

At Kinross Vineyard Cottages (from NZ$459 per night), you wake up, open your doors and you’re in the vineyard’s vineyards. It offers an excellent gastronomic and oenological offer.

Everything is within walking distance at the Hampshire Holiday Parks – Arrowtown (from NZD 38 per night for an unpowered site). It’s a beautiful open space with great views of the hills and is close to the Arrowtown River Walk. Shades of Arrowtown (from NZ$144 per night for a studio) is right in the heart of the historic area and the owners have plenty of local knowledge.