Chiloé Island in Chile : NPR
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The tides move so quickly on the island of Chiloé that they are part of local tradition.
It’s an island just north of Patagonia, known for its changeable climate and tales of witches.
I noticed that many stores were selling images of witches, so I asked a friend, Chilean anthropologist Alejandra Leighton, to explain why. The story she told reminded me of this photo showing low tide outside our hotel in the town of Castro.
A Spanish cartographer, José de Moraleda y Montero, challenged a local witch named Chillpila to a duel in the 18th century. Chillpila won by turning back the tide so quickly that Moraleda’s ship ran aground – and for this feat, she won a book of witchcraft. Alejandra says the legend even appeared during a famous witch trial in Chiloé in 1880.
It’s magical today to watch the tides rise and fall beneath the colorful houses on stilts. The only witches you’ll be able to find are in gift shops and books, although Alejandra may know a few real ones on the island.
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