The giants of Bangkok’s urban jungle: monitor lizards

Bangkok, nine o’clock in the morning. The tropical heat is slowly settling over Thailand’s capital like a damp towel.

The last sweaty joggers and tai chi practitioners are just leaving Lumphini Park – the green lungs of the metropolis. Suddenly, a tourist’s scream slicing through the calm atmosphere.

With eyes widened in fear, he stares at a creature that looks as if it has stepped straight out of prehistoric times.

A two-metre-long lizard known as an Asian water monitor (Varanus salvator), is slowly moving across the asphalt and repeatedly flicking out its forked, dark tongue.

Unimpressed by the horror of the Chinese holidaymaker, it marches towards a lake dotted with yellow pedal boats – and glides smoothly into the water.

Tourists immediately start pedalling and approach with curiosity as the animal swims elegantly through the murky green lake with its tail flattened at the side.

A buffet for the lizards

Monitor lizards have populated the planet for many millions of years. It is estimated that thousands of specimens of the species live in Bangkok’s canals, called khlongs, and there are probably hundreds in Lumphini Park alone.

“The population is much more dense areas around Bangkok than anyone will find in the wild,” explains reptile expert Michael Cota from Thailand’s National Science Museum. This is due to the large food supply.

“Especially in Lumpini Park: people feed the fish, resulting in an overpopulation in fish, which allows the monitor lizards there to feed much more than in any wild area,” says the German-American, who is also involved in the specialist group for monitor lizards of the Species Survival Commission.

As meat-eaters and scavengers, they feel right at home among civilization’s discarded items, nosing around plastic bottles and rubbish for edible waste early in the morning.

Relocation plan fails

Ten years ago, the authorities took action because of the oversized population: in 2016, they decided to relocate some of the monitor lizards from the park to a reserve outside the city.

Joggers and cyclists had repeatedly complained about the lizards suddenly crossing their paths. The measure also made international headlines – because the harmless monitor lizards have long been an attraction.

However, the action backfired: the relocation was not coordinated with experts who are familiar with banded monitor lizards, says Cota. “The captures were made after all of the monitor lizards had laid their eggs.”

In addition, the largest specimens in particular were removed. “Since larger monitors eat smaller ones when they can, the hatchlings had few predators,” Cota notes. As a result, the park is now firmly back in scaly hands.

Banded monitor lizard versus Komodo dragon

Most international tourists are fascinated by the animals not only because of their size, but also because you can get so close to them.

There are only occasional moments of shock when visitors are sitting in the grass and one of the semi-aquatic prehistoric lizards suddenly crawls by.

They are not to be confused with the world’s largest lizards in Indonesia: Komodo dragons are potentially life-threatening to humans due to their poisonous saliva, enormous biting power and sharp claws.

Though their bite is not deadly, the creatures of Bangkok have an almost cinematic presence. “They kind of look like little Godzillas,” says Berlin resident Annika, who regularly goes on holiday to Thailand.

The lizards move as if in slow motion, there’s something majestic about them, says the 43-year-old. “When they suddenly dart into the water, you realize what enormous power they have.”

Selfies yes – touching no

Meanwhile, tourists from around the world exchange practical tips in Thailand travel forums: When is the best time to see them — and where?

The consensus: early morning is ideal, though sightings are possible at almost any hour, especially on the bridges spanning the city’s canals.

Are they dangerous? Not particularly. Humans aren’t on their menu. If you leave them alone, they’ll leave you alone. That said, monitor lizards have powerful bodies and sharp claws, and they deserve a healthy dose of respect.

“If the monitor lizard inflates its throat, it is warning you to move away,” says Cota. Although they can sometimes be photographed at close range, they should never be touched.

The expert adds: “They are among the most intelligent reptiles with documented evidence of them being able to count and make mental maps of their (territories).”

Bangkok is one of the few places in the world where they can be observed at such close range. In the wilderness of Thailand, on the other hand, they are shy and difficult to spot.

In one Thailand travel advice forum, one user sums it up like this: “Watching them is oddly calming. No rush. No fear. Just survival perfected over millions of years.”

The giant lizards are neither fearsome creatures nor tame attractions — but resilient neighbours thriving in the urban jungle.