Curb the cod, park the prawns: top chefs on how to swap out the ‘big five’ seafood | Seafood

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For a nation surrounded by water, British tastes in seafood are remarkably parochial: we eat mainly cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns. But with a huge range of species, making the decision to swap out the “big five” for more sustainable options could be a good resolution to aim for in the new year. Here are five species to consider – and if you’re worried they won’t taste as good as cod and chips, we’ve rounded up a selection of top chefs to tell you how to make the most of what could be on your plate in 2026.

Mussels

Why are they durable? Most mussels are raised on ropes in the sea, limiting damage to the wider ocean environment. They can purify water and improve biodiversity.

A classic bowl of mussels marinière. Photo: Rick Stein Restaurants

How to make them taste better? Delicious, versatile, easy to cook and relatively inexpensive, mussels are “so underrated that they go with just about everything,” says Jack Stein, executive chef of Rick Stein Restaurants. A quick steam or simmer in broth or sauce, about three to four minutes, is enough, and Stein likes traditional mussels marinière with shallots, garlic, parsley and white wine. He also recommends another French classic, mussels mouclade – a sauce made with onion, garlic, saffron, curry powder, crème fraîche and a sprinkling of parsley to finish. Before cooking, it is crucial to take good care of it. Unwrap at home and store in a bowl covered with a damp cloth in the fridge, says CJ Jackson, author of Great British Seafood Revival. Before cooking, rinse with cold water and use only those that are closed. After cooking, throw away any that remain closed.

CJ Jackson, author of Great British Seafood Revival. Photography: Steve Lee

Hake

Why is it sustainable? Hake populations have benefited from an EU-wide recovery plan, and many hake fishing boats use acoustic pingers, reducing the risk of cetacean accidental capture, says Matt Slater, head of marine conservation at Cornwall Wildlife Trust. Opt for gillnet-caught hake certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and avoid Cape hake, which has lower sustainability ratings, says Kerry Lyne, head of the Good Fish Guide at the Marine Conservation Society.

Hake is a meaty white fish and a great alternative to cod and haddock. Photo: Rick Stein Restaurants

How can I make it taste better? Hake is a fleshy white fish with less flaky flesh than cod and haddock. It’s a great alternative, increasingly popular with fish and chip shop owners, and can be baked in the oven for around 10 minutes or added in chunks to fish soups and curries.

Jackson says hake is “extremely popular in the Mediterranean and much of our own landings are sold to the Spanish, who have a voracious appetite for it. Why shouldn’t we?” She likes to cook hake with a simple crust made with panko breadcrumbs, olive oil and herbs, accompanied by a platter of roasted cherry tomatoes, sliced ​​red onion and fennel. Stein’s favorite method, inspired by food writer Simon Hopkinson, is to serve poached hake with tarragon mayonnaise with capers and beans. “I also like to pair it with a crunchy winter salad of beetroot, cabbage and cavolo nero with a nice acidic dressing,” says Stein.

Lotte

Roberta Hall-McCarron, chef-founder of restaurants including Little Chartoom. Photography: Christian + Amelia Masters

Why is it sustainable? There are healthy stocks across much of the UK, particularly in Cornwall and the North Sea, with catches limited by quotas. According to Lyne, North Sea monkfish caught in nets is the best option.

How can I make it taste better? Monkfish was once so cheap and undervalued that it was used as cat food and passed off as langoustines. Things have changed: it is now a premium fish, and although its livers are delicious, the tail and cheeks are easier to prepare at home. Firm and succulent, its meat stands up to almost any cooking method, from sautéing to steaming to roasting to barbecue. It takes flavors well, from bold Korean-style marinades to punchy curries.

Hall-McCarron says monkfish is versatile and can be roasted, grilled, fried or served in soups. Photography: Gabrielle Roberts/AwAyeMedia

For Roberta Hall-McCarron, founding chef of three restaurants in Edinburgh, including the Little Chartroom, monkfish is “wonderful. The cheeks are so delicious you can pan-fry, grill and fry them.” She recently served monkfish marinated in yogurt, garlic and chili then grilled on the barbecue. Its meaty flesh also holds up well in soups – Hall-McCarron suggests using monkfish in a classic bouillabaisse – and its cartilaginous central bone makes an excellent stock.

Anchovies and sardines

Why are they durable? Stocks are good in the south of the UK due to “low fishing effort”, says Caroline Bennett of Sole of Discretion, based in Plymouth. Typically caught in large nets, which don’t harm the broader environment but can remove too many at once, Bennett recommends looking for those caught in smaller nets.

Venetian marinated sardines from Mitch Tonks. Photograph: Kim Lightbody/The Guardian

Although they are not the same, sardines and anchovies are fatty, healthy fish and a good alternative to the farmed salmon that has flooded UK supermarkets. Sardines and anchovies are low on the food chain and “are therefore resilient species that can withstand relatively high levels of fishing pressure,” says Bennett. However, they are often caught on a large scale in southern countries and used in fish feed.

Mitch Tonks, founder of Rockfish restaurants and fishmongers. Photography: Ed Ovenden/Rockfish

How to make them taste better? Fresh anchovies are relatively rare in British fishmongers and supermarkets, but high-end tins have become de rigeur in trendy restaurants and delis. Hall-McCarron loves them on toast, spooned over tomatoes and tapenade – make sure each ingredient is at room temperature – or mixed with mayonnaise for a fishy twist. Mitch Tonks, founder of Rockfish restaurants and fishmongers, says sardines are a “mind-blowing” fish and believes simplicity is key: sprinkle the whole fish generously with salt and grill until the oil runs out. Eat on toast with olive oil and lemon and a tomato salad on the side. “You can’t beat him,” Tonks said.

Scallop shells

Why are they durable? Look for hand-dived disco scallops or Rockfish scallops, which are caught using lighted traps to attract bivalves without damaging the seabed. Most UK scallops are dredged, which damages the seabed and should be avoided.

Scallops can be roasted under the grill with butter in just five minutes. Photography: Ed Ovenden/Rockfish

How to make them taste better? Scallops are sweet and meaty – and incredibly easy to cook. Tonks says roasting them under the broiler with butter for five minutes is all you need. They also pair well with pork, especially pancetta or black pudding – a buttery roll of scallops, bacon and garlic makes a superb breakfast. For something a little different, Jackson adds it to a seafood and seaweed stew, using scallops, mussels, cockles and clams with smoked pancetta, red onion, garlic, tomatoes, white wine and fish stock.

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