How to Apply Glycolic Acid on Your Face, According to Dermatologists

Trendy skin care ingredients can take off overnight on social media, but the trending acid of the moment doesn’t always come with an instruction manual. Wondering how to apply glycolic acid on your face? TikTok will tell you all about its multitasking superpowers, but we asked dermatologists exactly how to incorporate it into your routine.

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What is glycolic acid?

If you need a complete crash course on glycolic acid and how it works, we’ve got you covered, but for a quick refresher: “Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together,” says Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Charm. “Due to its small molecular size, it penetrates quickly and deeply, helping to resurface dull skin and stimulate cell turnover for a brighter, smoother complexion.”

So what sets glycolic acid apart from other trendy chemical exfoliants, like azelaic acid or salicylic acid? “Among AHAs, glycolic acid is the simplest in structure and the smallest; it has the lowest molecular weight,” says Kenneth Howe, MD, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York. Charm. Due to its small molecular weight, it is able to penetrate the skin particularly deeply, helping to strengthen skin elasticity and target acne in addition to destroying dead skin cells on the surface.

How to Apply Glycolic Acid to Your Face

A quick search for glycolic acid products will bring up cleansers, peel pads, and concentrates, making it not easy to know where to start. With any new skincare active, you will want to tailor the application technique to your skin type and concerns. If you’re new to glycolic acid, Dr. Graf says one rule is pretty universal: “Start by using it once or twice a week and increase it as your skin adapts. Using it too often can cause dryness or sensitivity,” she says.

Glycolic acid for sensitive skin

If your skin is prone to irritation, Dr. Graf advises looking for formulas with less than 10% glycolic acid for home use. An easy way to test the waters is to opt for a facial cleanser. “A glycolic cleanser can get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a glycolic leave-on product if you’re not sure if your skin can tolerate it,” says Alix Shapiro, skin therapist at Heyday in New York. Charm.

Dr. Graf also notes that for extremely sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin, glycolic acid may be too harsh. “Gentle exfoliants, like lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), might be better options,” she says.

Glycolic acid for normal acne-prone skin

If your skin generally responds well to skin care acids (or you’ve built up a tolerance), one of the most effective ways to administer glycolic acid is through a chemical peel. You can opt for a medical grade peel at your dermatologist’s office once a month or, more easily, use glycolic acid peel pads at home. Since they are less potent, they can be used two to three times a week.

“If you want something multitasking, Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Exfoliating Pads combine glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids for smoother, brighter skin without irritation,” advises Dr. Graf. She also recommends Charlotte Tilbury’s Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial to give oily and combination skin a boost of radiance, “as it can help tackle clogged pores and acne-prone skin.”

Peelable pads are especially easy to use because they’re already saturated with formula: simply take a pad with clean hands and run it all over your face and neck. Avoid the eye area and make sure you don’t press too hard or rub. If you’re using a bottled toner or glycolic acid solution, Tracy Evans, board-certified dermatologist and medical director of Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology, advises using a cotton ball to administer the product (using the same method) as a first layer after cleansing your skin.

Another option is to use a glycolic acid mask: Dr. Evans suggests applying it once a week for about 10 minutes. Just be sure to wash it thoroughly and follow up with barrier repair products.

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Caudalie Vinoperfect Glycolic Peeling Mask

While it may take some trial and error to find which application method works best with your skincare routine, remember that you should only test one at a time. Using glycolic acid at multiple points in your routine — or using concentrated products every day — “can lead to dry, irritated skin,” says Dr. Evans.

Combine glycolic acid with other active ingredients

If you’re adding an exfoliating acid to your lineup, it’s also important to balance it with hydrating and soothing equivalents. “Glycolic pairs well with hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide,” says Dr. Graf.

On the other hand, if you already have a strong acid like retinol in your diet, you generally shouldn’t mix it with a new glycolic acid product. Using glycolic acid with other products targeting cell turnover “can overwhelm your skin and lead to irritation,” according to Dr. Graf.

How long will it take to see results?

It is not uncommon to experience mild side effects when you first start using glycolic acid. “Mild tingling, dryness, or flaking is common at first, especially if you’re new to exfoliating acids,” says Dr. Graf. If you notice severe irritation or redness, that’s a signal to try a formula with a lower concentration of glycolic acid or to reduce your frequency of use.