What to Do About Hormonal Acne, According to a Dermatologist

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Anyone suffering from adult acne knows that it can be frustrating. If breakouts have followed you into your 20s and beyond, you’re probably wondering what to do about hormonal acne. It turns out that acne can be caused no matter how good your skin care routine is.

“Hormonal acne is a term used for breakouts in adult women,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “It’s a bit of a misnomer because the reality is that all acne is determined by your hormones. Hormones like testosterone stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, leading to increased sebum production and inflammation.”

According to Dr. Zeichner, breakouts tend to be cyclical and occur around the time of the menstrual cycle due to higher or lower hormone levels. Hormonal acne is also much more common than you think: between 12% and 22% of women aged 26 to 44 experience acne in their daily lives.

Dr. Zeichner explains what to do with hormonal acne and some recommended options for clearer skin.

What is hormonal acne?

Adult acne is characterized by red, angry pimples that usually appear along the lower third of the face, around the jaw line. “As hormone levels rise in the middle of the menstrual cycle, oil glands are activated, resulting in breakouts a week or two later when a woman gets her period,” says Dr. Zeichner.

How do I know if my acne is hormonal?

There are key differences between hormonal acne and acne seen in adolescents. According to Dr. Zeichner, teenage acne is characterized by pimples all over the face, including blackheads and whiteheads.

Adult acne is much more inflammatory. “Deeper, painful papules and cysts under the skin,” says Dr. Zeichner. “It is important to note that pimples seen in adult hormonal acne are generally not ones that can be picked. Especially in this group of patients, picking the skin can result in more harm than good, causing breaks in the outer layer of skin with potential infections and scarring.”

What causes hormonal acne?

There is no definitive answer to this question, since each body is unique. Besides hormones, Dr. Zeichner cites stress and diet as potential causes. “Foods high in sugar as well as cow’s milk have been shown to be worse than acne breakouts, so try to stick to a low SPF and consider milk substitutes like almond milk,” he says. “Whey protein and vitamin B12 have also been linked to acne breakouts.”

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